The end of December, 1960. Our annual mochi-making event is held at my home in Komatsu, Japan, at the earthen-floor kitchen in the old house where I grew up. The air is crisp and the water ice cold in Snow Country. Before dawn, my grandma and her helpers start steaming the mochi rice and cooking the azuki beans. My eyes, ears, nose, and entire being sense the steaming rice. I watch my grandma pack the mochi with sweetened azuki bean paste and place them in lacquered oju boxes, while I wait wondering when we can eat some. Women there are rapidly making round kagami-mochi for New Year's decorations, sheets of noshi-mochi for cooking, and hard kaki-mochi with black soy beans, sesame seeds, or sugar for drying. The speed and skill of their hands and fingers are like magic. Later, the hardened kaki-mochi is sliced thin, tied between twisted strands of straw, suspended from a bicycle wheel, and then hung from the exposed beams of the house. Kaki-mochi became our kids' snack for the rest of the winter. Never did I imagine that I would come to recall such a scene years later with so much nostalgia.
Fast forward to December, 2004. I am here in Hawai'i. The sky outside is blue, punctuated with white clouds. On December 30th, everyone is in T-shirts and shorts. Preparation for the annual mochi making has already started at our local friend's house. In their garage sit two vintage cast iron rice cookers, just like we used to have in my childhood kitchen. On top of them wooden steamers, well used, are stacked. From the steamers exudes a distinctive aroma. I feel as though I have been transported back in time. I see a hundred-year-old mortar carved out of lava rock, and huge mallets fashioned from Apple trees cut down in their back yard. Pounding begins around seven in the morning. The parents of the house, their grandma, their daughter, their son-in-law, their relatives, and their friends gather and prepare the mochi. The pettan, pettan sound of pounding mochi, the rhythmical yoisho calls for turning the hot rice, and animated laughter echo in the garage while batches are pounded one after another in the mortar. The women make balls of fresh mochi and fill them with sweetened azuki bean paste. Yes, again my whole body feels this mochi-making sensation. These feelings of energy, the air, the family ties, and the human interactions rooted in the community thrive here in Hawai'i.
Twenty years have passed since I moved to the U.S. I have been making mochi with an electric machine. I am not doing the making; a mechanical process occurs in my kitchen. Nothing is there to feel or to get excited about. The mochi making at my old home that required the whole family, relatives, and friends, and that I felt with my whole body, now lives only in my memory. This sensation, however, returned to me in Hawai'i this past year.